Thursday, Aug. 25, at 4395 Piedmont Ave served up bowls of Early Girl tomatoes, purreed and hot with a dab of crème fraiche and a dash of baby onion greens, for $8.
Tomato season is just getting started in Northern California, and Early Girls, as usual, have burst onto the scene with their sweet, concentrated flavor. Local Café is just getting started itself, having opened for business on Tuesday with an aim of keeping the food as local as the people. It appears Chef Colin Etezadi has met Early Girls before and knows better than to mess with them too much.